Castaway: An island’s plight

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The river island of Majuli in Assam is buckling under the recurring onslaught of floods and erosion. Would it be too late before we wake up to revive this pristine hub of nature, wonders Pranab Deka…

It’s the same old story. As the monsoons come to Assam, there resurfaces news and concern for the world’s largest river island Majuli (which has now reportedly lost its ‘largest’ status to Brazil’s Amazon island). Regarded as a holy centre of Baishnavite movement founded by Srimanta Sankardev, one of the leading exponents of Assamese culture and literature, Majuli is famous for its Satras or centres for spiritual and cultural learning. There are 22 such centres in Majuli now. But Majuli is not devoid of its woes. Geographically, its situation is such that every year floods and erosion caused by the mighty Brahmaputra eat away a remarkable portion of its land. Now Majuli is reduced to half of what it used to be. It even failed to get the world heritage status owing to the state government’s apathetic attitude. To top it, the government of Assam and the Brahmaputra Board are still busy passing the buck of responsibility to save Majuli from the yearly ordeal.

It is the people who love Majuli and wish to preserve its unique heritage who are passionately working away for its conservation. “The Brahmaputra Board is merely taking some temporary protection measures to save Majuli,” says Manoj Bora, a local social activist. “We demand the construction of permanent rock spurs round Majuli, but the Board wants to get away by constructing some wooden pickets in some places. Besides, the board plans to start its work in the rainy season which is not workable,” he added.

The people of Majuli are losing their agricultural land every year and are forced to live on the streets and by the dams temporarily. The Satras of Majuli had also to be relocated following threats of erosion. “The government is arranging land for the Satras in other places in the state. But what about the local people” wonders Demi Gum, a renowned poet and local resident of Majuli.

Though Majuli remains synonymous with Satra sanskriti – as centres for practice of classical arts such as Borgeet, Ankia Bhawona, Satria dance, mask making etc. – there is more to Majuli beyond the Satras. It is also home to many unique tribes of Assam like Mishing and Deuries, who are known for their closeness to nature and traditional lifestyle. “Majuli can become a major tourist attraction if we showcase the unique tribal culture of this area to the rest of the world. With its natural beauty and geographical uniqueness we have so much to offer,” says Haren Narah, a local entrepreneur who runs a Mishing heritage cottage in Majuli named Mepo Okum.

Ravaged by annual flood, backwardness and government indifference, Majuli might find recourse in tourism, but the conflict between development and conservation is likely to stay. “We are opposing a government plan to build a bridge over Brahmaputra to Majuli from Jorhat. We fear that it will open up Majuli for other activities and Majuli will lose its uniqueness and tranquility. People visiting Majuli are excited by the boat journey to reach here. The government should thus take steps to develop the boat and ferry service instead of constructing a bridge,” say Demi Gum and Haren Naharh.

“We want government to give us geographical security, without which we cannot survive. People of Majuli are used to annual floods; our lifestyle is adjusted to it, but our biggest threat is erosion. The river is changing its course and Majuli is a delicate eco-system. Everybody should look for a conservation effort sustainable over long term,” says Manoj Bora.

There are notable efforts including petitions, seminars, demonstrations and delegations in process for Majuli's future. Arun Sarma, an ex-MP from Assam raised the issue in Parliament too. Eco-tourism can prove to be saviour for a region that is nature’s very own lair. Whether Majuli gets World Heritage status or not, the onus to preserve this fragile eco-system is a matter of survival, and not of choice.

Pranab Deka

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Source : IIPM Editorial, 2010.

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